Walking For Awareness - Daryl's Walk - Movember Botswana

Walking for Awareness; Movember Botswana - Kazangula to Maun

Like all great or not so great ideas I believe this fantastic chapter of my life started in  the Okavango River Lodge, on the banks of the Tamalakane River, on the far edge of Maun in Botswana.

Friends and I had been talking about a walk from Kasane to Maun for some years now but it was never really pursued. Probably for a few reasons; It’s a vast distance, there is no water and the bush is incredibly thick and inhospitable.  We also had never walked without backup and this distance would be too great to walk without support, unless you were to walk in the rainy season ensuring there would be standing water along the way to quench some serious thirsts.

It turned out that we were not the only ones to have had such a crazy idea. Daryl Dandridge, a well know naturalist and guide had been longing to take on such an adventure. Through speaking to his brother the fantasy finally started to develop from mere bar chat to a small elite team being chosen. Maps from NASSA were issued; talks with various Special Forces about viability (BE CAREFUL WITH COMMENTS LIKE THIS MATE) extraction plans, and body monitoring kit were all ticked off the list. Inevitably Social Media. started whirring and sponsors started falling over themselves to furnish us with money and gear. I lie, if only!. We had two weeks in which to prepare and organize it from scratch. Not ideal for one of the biggest episodes in my adventuring  career but hey I wouldn’t let that stop me! Some times the 80% solution planned in haste is the best solution. Some Sponsors generously came to the table, we had various workable extraction plans, a phenomenal tracking device and arguably we are the equivalents of the Special Forces in the safari world! Bear Grylls we challenge you to accompany us on our next trip!.

The walk was designed to raise awareness for men’s health, particularly testicular and prostrate cancer, hence the decision to walk in November when men across the world grow a moustache to highlight the work of the various charities. The team from Movember Botswana organized it and in turn they are linked to the Cancer Association of Botswana.  

Our route once finalized started at Kazangula on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River, from here we would walk south and southwest skirting Chobe National Park for the next 21 days and cover approximately 370km. Walking in November would not be the obvious choice. Even though the temperatures rise brutally into the high forty Degrees Celsius’ and terrifying electrical storms begin to thunder down upon the Kalahari sands, there would be sufficent cloud cover to keep the temperatures at night comfortable enough to not have to carry extra blankets.

It turned out that we would have four nights out alone away from our support vehicle; these days and nights were by far the toughest and some of the longest distances we had to walk. Carrying two days worth of water, tents, food, GPS tracker, a rifle for protection, large modern cameras, first aid kits and satellite phones. This, believe me does not pack down lightly. But we are the walkers and not the talkers - so we hunkered down and got on with it.




The beginning

On the 3rd November 2014 at 0700hrs, our adventure began. We caught a lift to the kazangula border post, negotiated our way through immigration which was actually a real pleasure for once having all the immaculately dressed Border Officials come out to wish us well with  beaming smiles and kind words.
Once we were standing on the banks of the Zambezi it suddenly became very real. Looking across the water at another one of my great loves, Zambia, I wondered what would be ahead of us, what difficulties and joys would we endure?.
0700hrs arrived and we splashed our hands in the water of the mighty river, gave the sanctuary of Zambia one more look,then turned our backs on it and headed back to the border, where the people of Kasane that had come out to see us off and wish us all the best.

We walked for about 9km along the side of the tarmac road, at the beginning we were. force to negotiate huge trucks heading for the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) and Kenya but after a couple of kilometers we left the hustle and bustle of the border area and started to come across signs of the wild. Baboons crossed the road confidently in front of us and from under the shelter of some Teak shrub, Kudu stared at us with their unblinking doe eyes.
It was wonderful to leave the side of the tar road and work our way through the bush towards where our first camp would be. There was of Plenty sign of game and just as we were reaching our camp I looked to my right a saw a male lion strolling along parallel to our path. His head was low to the ground and you could see he was hot and bothered and focused on the scratch of shade that some burnt bushes were offering ahead of him. Our gaze followed his path to the bushes where underneath,  huddled up looking equally pitiful and hot were his threebrothers! We stopped briefly, frantically trying to get the right settings on my canon camera before the inevitable flight. It happened before I could decide whether to film or photograph. They bolted. I think I may have just managed to capture four tawny rumps and a lot of dust. They fled across the burnt and dusty plain into some bushes beyond. I felt for those boys. Buoyed by that encounter we carried on, what a cracking start to our adventure!
The Lion quartet serenaded us for the first few hours after dark, almost doing a full circle of our camp. Such magnificent noise, we felt so privileged.

Day 2

We rose relatively early for we had two days and nights ahead of us without support. That meant full packs as previously mentioned. We actually had to help one another lift them onto our backs! But this was also to be a lesson. We would learn what we really needed or not and how much water we could survive on.
There were tracks everywhere, the bush was thin and in serious need of rain but it helped us that we could see. Along way we saw a majestic lone Sable bull, steenbok and elephant skeletons bleached white by the sun.
The bush was vastly different from Ngamiland and the Okavango. It reminded me more of what I have experienced in Zambia, northern Mozambique and the southern regions of Tanzania. It had a terrific feel to it. Wondrous unknown trees towered above us offering much needed shelter as well as some more familiar Abori.
We reached our chosen area to camp for the night by lunchtime and as we were sharing a tin of bully beef and crackers the heavens opened. Packing everything rather haphazardly back into our previously tidy bags we scuttled like hermit crabs across the sticky clay edge of the Pans to what looked like better shelter under some Jackalberries on the other side.  We shrank into the tree in an effort to seek some sort of refuge but got very wet. The lightening was cracking and thunder booming and rolling around us. It was pretty serve but experience has taught us that it doesn’t last forever and the discomfort will go away. All morning we had been wilting and longing for a cold shower and our prayers were answered and then some.
It finally stopped raining and we decided not to press on further but rather take our chances there and hope there would be no more rain. None of us had packed our waterproof flysheets for the tents to save weight. We scouted about for firewood and kindling and soon had a hearty fire going. Bee-eaters soared, plucking insects from above our heads. The grace of these birds never ceases to amaze me, mixed in with their abundance of color. We found ourselves watching this spectacle for sometime, every other duty forgotten.

Just before the sun started to set we went for a little recce patrol in a southerly direction- the way we would set off in the morning. There were the most impressive game trails running like furrows from the interior back towards the Pans where we were camped. One usually only appreciates and really grasps the size and shapes of them from the air but these were so well used and defined it was if a potato farmer had made them. As dusk fell and we were chatting around our fire a beautiful male Pennant-winged Nightjar flew through camp in all his glory. Unusual streamer like feathers trailing behind Which are actually very long white inner primaries feathers.  A barn owl came screeching through camp shortly after. Late in the night a breeding herd of elephants passed close by as well as a lone bull.

Day 3

We woke at around 0400 hours. It had started to rain. Not heavily but you could just see that the clouds above us were very swollen. Packing was done as quickly as possible. It would have been a nightmare to have gotten our gear wet and have to carry the extra weight. All packing and duties were long done as the false dawn started showing its blue grey light on the horizon. We wanted to take full advantage of the weather and crack on, putting as many kilometers behind us as possible.
Again we came across a lot of fresh tracks; hyena, lion, leopard, sable, roan, eland, elephant and giraffe to name just the larger ones. They were all showing clearly due to the recent rain. I find it just as exciting seeing a fresh track as I do seeing the animal. Knowing that the game is there, somewhere seems to hold a terrific energy. Perhaps one has to spend sometime in the wild to learn that.
Along the way we had some good giraffe sightings and at one pretty little pan there was a hollowed out Leadwood tree. It was a magnificent ancient old tree. Curiosity obviously got the better of us and on peaking in we saw a set of bones lying at the bottom. It was hard to photograph but we managed a few pictures with a GoPro on a pole. Our first thoughts and gut instinct said that it was a leopard. Why and how had it got there? There could be dozens of explanations. But old age and a good final resting place -  Why not?
We reached our backup in very good time. We composed ourselves and I am sure looked like bull elephants arriving at a water whole in Nxai Pan during the dry periods. Driven by the smell of water the walk morphed from a saunter to an almost headlongmad dash. Kirk who was expecting us in the late afternoon was very surprised. He had arrived there the previous day and had his own adventures to share with us too.  We were now camped in a vast black cotton soil pan spreading hundreds of kilometers from Zimbabwe to Chobe in Botswana. Everyone was a little apprehensive. One decent shower and the Land Rover with its trailer may get bogged down for hours, days or weeks!
Having a back up vehicle had so many advantages other than fresh water, food and bedrolls. It also gave us the opportunity to carry our photographic gear. There were five pelican cases between Lawrence and I alone! We decided to send the quad copter (EXPLAIN WHAT THIS IS) up later that afternoon to have a good look at what we were camped in, where we had come from and where we were heading. Sometimes I, and I am sure I speak for the team, regretted that decision. It confirmed there was an expanse of true nothingness out there waiting for us!
Hyenas came boldly into camp later that night. They had sneaked up level with the tents before a flashlight illuminated them and sent them loping off. It is Hard to think how they are so bold towards humans in such a place where humans have never lived and influenced them. Perhaps they are just so wild they have no fear,  Two of them spent the night with us. But respectfully kept their distance.

Day 4

Our straight line route for the day was 13km. Not a serious amount but we were walking through the ‘wastelands’! We left camp a bit late as the Land Rover wouldn’t start. Luckily we had a few meters in which to push start it and then we set out across the open plains towards the shimmering heat above the dark soil. There really was very little there. In the rainy season you could imagine that it is teeming with wildfowl and waders and there was sign of elephants in areas but a fire had long since burnt the last remnants of any noticeable vegetation and life. Strangely though we came across a herd of Oryx with two tiny newborn calves. In total we counted over sixty Oryx, more than twenty Tsessebe and a couple of Ostrich. The ground had a very strange texture almost like dry hardened peat. Soft underfoot and with massive zigzagged cracks which were mostly over a meter deep. It made for some tough going.
At one stage we were in the most desolate of all Mopane forests. The fire had been through so all was bare and not an inch of shade anywhere. Here there was no life. How could anything survive? As we were discussing this a small flock of White-crested Helmet Shrikes fluttered into view. “Life” I said to which Lawrence replied, “they’re lost, like us! Follow us birds we have a GPS we’ll get you out”!
On arrival and thoroughly exhausted from the slog we reached what was supposed to be our camp. But we found ourselves still down in the vast black cotton soil system. There was no way we could risk camping here. The satellite phone was turned on and we saw there was a message informing us of the new co-ordinates to the new camp. It was another 9km in a straight line. By now it was midday and scorching. Mentally it was very tough. Having set ones mind to the original plan and judged the amount of food and water that would be needed, mentally an alteration difficult. Luckily not too long after the last water in our Camel Baks reached boiling point our Land Rover raced into sight and issued fruit and fresh water. Heaven and a lifesaver! But that day took its toll on all of us, the total was just under 26km and it had taken immense effort under that brutal Kalahari sun without a break.
The storms rolled in and we sat a watched them until they hit us almost blowing tents clean away! It proceeded to rain all night long!

Day 5

A pretty wet start to the day but also a late start. Which was good as we were walking along a firebreak for 9km or so. Easy compared to the previous day. When packing up my tent I spotted a very decent sized parabuthus scorpion. When Kirk was getting the chairs out from under the trailer he almost grabbed a Puff Adder! Which Lawrence immediately relocated for the safety of all of us!
Once on the move again we came across fresh Cheetah tracks that must have passed our camp in the early hours of the morning. We sat by a large puddle in the road for a while watching the Barn Swallows swoop down for a drink. What a wondrous bird. So small yet getting over so many challenges and travelling such vast distances.
Getting into camp in such good time gave us the opportunity to do some much needed laundry, battery charging and some time-lapse film work. The skies were full of boisterous clouds and drama was in the air, a dream to work with. We also received our first resupply from Kasane. We had sent an order over the satellite phone to the local Spar and it had been transported down by two Land Cruisers and a Land Rover!  The Kasane Movember team had totally outdone themselves and we will be eternally grateful to the amount of effort they put towards the walk. They spent the night with us and the conversation ran deep into the night.
Two male lions walked the firebreak towards camp roaring as they went. But by now 
Daryl our point man and chief had fallen sick.  


Day 6

Daryl drove back to Kasane with the idea of flying on to Maun for further treatment and checks. We sincerely hoped  it would not be anything major and that he may even be able to join us again shortly. We ended up spending the rest of the day in camp and as it cooled down ventured out for a short walk and to capture some terrific skies on film.

Day 7

Rising at 0400 hours we headed out of camp at first light. It was strange that now it was just Lawrence and I. Taking it in turns to lead and carry the rifle. It wasn’t supposed to be that way. But we would make the best of the situation and we are both very used to walking and leading guests through the bush. But it was just a huge shame that our mentor would not be there to guide us through.
The bush was fantastic and again very different from what we are used to. We tracked fresh lion spoor for some time but as it started leading us away from our destination we decided to drop them. Further on the bush became very thick almost forming tunnels overhead in which the elephant paths that we followed meandered in and out. It was a jungle of unknown trees and shrubs. Perhaps I recognized some genus but need to confirm this with time and a good tree book.  Within this maze of vegetation we came across herds of elephant. Some lay flat on their sides resting away from the heat. We covered a good amount of ground in good time. There were even the odd Baobab tree to steer towards and snoop about underneath and for tracks and signs.

Day 8

It was our hardest day so far. We were also carrying two days of water, food etc. as we were alone tonight. We had slipped out of the Teak forests and entered Terminilia scrub. It was truly horrid. There were no leaves yet and no shade. The sand was loose it was one step forward and one little step slipping back. We tried making temporary shelters, they looked a bit like chimpanzee nests above our heads but they didn’t work so after spending a very uncomfortable hour or so being bitten by ants and cooked alive we dogged on. Eventually we picked up an elephant path going our way, and life became a little easier but the temperature was still in the mid forty-Celsius and thirty percent plus humidity. We came across a set of dry waterholes. As we approached with thick bush on either side we realized we were in the middle of a herd of elephants. We slipped through undetected.
It was too hot for them to notice or care. Ironically as we reached the pans the clouds finally covered the sun and we were spared a little.  There were a couple of Shepard Trees which we dove under and slept for a good hour before the rumble of thunder and elephants brought us back to consciousness. With a lot of groaning and tight smiles on our faces we donned our backpacks and carried on for another 2km. It takes awhile to get going again. A bit like an old steam train, ahead of us a herd of elephants came into view and solemnly moved into a single file as they joined our path. They looked like we felt. They could smell the rain and were waiting in anticipation for it to fall but begrudgingly knew that in may not fall here and now but another 15km away and that is where the matriarch would have to lead her family.  We plodded behind them. It turned out to be a massive network of pans some of which would happily swallow a truck if full with rainwater. A huge amount of elephant and buffalo activity could be seen, but nothing recent. It was from many months previous when these waterholes were full but now they were just cracked dry earth.
We were worried about our water supply due to the fact that it had been so hot and we had drunk more than we should have. Selecting a good spot for the tents we started to act quickly. There was a 180degree wall of grey menacing weather tearing down upon us. Hopefully at least that would solve the water issue! Ponchos were lain out in some of the smaller elephant holes and weighed down with chunks of wood, the idea was to catch as much rainwater as possible. As the first wave of wind and rain hit us we used it to wipe the dirt from our legs and arms. We had suffered badly from wild Hibiscus that cut and irritated any exposed skin. We then bid each other goodnight even though it was barely dark and retired to our tents. The storm grew in force and we both learn that out tents weren’t as good as we had thought!
Lawrence found out that his very expensive flysheet leaked like a sieve and my flysheet was on a similar path! I decided to catch the water droplets in my mouth but it meant doing some weird form of yoga in my tiny tent so I gave up and used my mug to catch water running down the inside. Lawrence decided to stab holes in the bottom of his tent to release the water. The ground sheet was very waterproof it seemed! To add more entertainment to the night there were herds of elephants all around us trumpeting and squealing in delight as the rain fell and a leopard passed near by. At one point I was so sure that a bull elephant or two were about to walk over my tent I lay there with a camera in each hand ready to catch their silhouettes against my tent wall each time the lightening struck! I never got the shot and never saw the silhouettes!

Day 9

The rain had ceased by dawn. It was cool and fresh and more importantly the ponchos were full of beautiful sweat rainwater. The bottles were replenished before any naughty elephants could come and claim their share. Camp was packed in no time at all and some sweet rooibos tea went down a treat. We got lucky this day as we got onto elephant path straight away that lead us nearly the whole way to our backup and next camp. Our pace was good on the path and the kilometers glided by. We made camp in good time, which was nestled into a stunning grove of Teak trees with a giant elephant path running alongside it. A bull with his mind on other matters almost wonder into camp and after dark a breeding herd slipped into the perimeters of camp to feed almost unnoticed.

Day 10

Another resupply was on its way from Maun, and with it news of Daryl. Sadly his condition wasn’t good enough to join us again but we heard that Neil and Taryn were on their way in an ancient 2F Land Cruiser, this gave us more reason for concern. We had an easy days walk down a cutline but it was seriously hot and being on a firebreak there was no shade so every now and again we’d duck off to the side and sit under a bush. There was a lot of elephant activity on the road from the previous night and we bumped into a few herds that were crossing and were milling about still before heading off into the interior. There was one track that kept us entertained all morning. It was a lone Eland bull. Its track wove its way along the firebreak and seemed to ricochet from side to side. It was as if we were tracking a drunken person stumbling and dragging their feet. We were honestly expecting to come across this poor old fellow at any moment. The heat and dryness of the bush having brought him to a stand still but we never caught up with him. I hope he found relief somewhere! We made camp at a T-junction amongst Zambezi Teak shrubs. It offered just enough shade to make it bearable. The temperatures rose to over 44’c and the humidity was uncomfortably high too.  The resupply made it at sunset and it was wonderful to see them safe and sound and to eat some fresh fruit and vegetables.  
Conversation ran late into the night and we just managed to pack our bags for the next few days before another storm threatened us.

Day 12

Waking up at 0400 hours was now becoming the normal start to our days. Especially when we had days and nights out alone. The logic being to Try to beat the sun and try to beat the storms. Our blurry-eyed team bid us fair well and it was off into the unknown we went. It was very thick bush and tough to begin with. The humidity and temperatures did their usual thing of making our lives rather unpleasant and our heavy packs weighed us down but to be perfectly honest throughout all the hardships that were thrown our way I wouldn’t have wanted anything else. We made the most of it and absorbed every moment. There were beautiful wild flowers starting to blossom and various combretums (EXPLAIN WHAT THESE ARE) too. The smells were beyond delicious and hugely distracting in such a good way. They really would make my day and all the discomforts melt away.
We found a colossal elephant path going our way and stuck to it like a leech. There was no way we would leave such paths unless they were drastically going off course. Rather walk an extra kilometer or two than fight the bush. We had enough scars to show already! We got on such a roll that we almost thought we’d get two days worth of walking done in that single day. The idea of a few cups of warm water and a flannel to sooth our itchy, dirty skin and a bedroll was almost to tempting. We soldiered on til there was not enough light to safely walk. The elephants that we hadn’t been seeing suddenly materialized from who knows where and we split from the path and made a hasty camp and fire. It wasn’t ideal. Breeding herds were all around us and there was little firewood to collect. It all seemed to be soft termite eaten sticks that would become sawdust in our hands. Luckily there were three hefty bits of Mopane nearby that would did us well, very well!

After a light supper of dried fruit and nuts we hunkered down in our tents, which formed an L around the fire. The elephants were still all around us and there was a slightly anxious vibe in the air but Lawrence and I were so dog tired both mentally and physically that we were soon falling asleep. I was brought back into consciousness by Lawrence saying, “hey josh! I think a lion or leopard just walked round your tent”! I had heard the noise too. It was strange and I think I was to far gone to register completely what it was but it was a noise we’d never heard before, a strange sort of breathing. By this time hearts were racing adrenalin pumping and things were happening. More movement this time by Lawrence’s tent he flicked his head torch on and peeped through a bit of mosquito mesh sewn into the nylon tent. If you have ever tried to used a torch from inside a net or something similar you will know you get a fair amount of light bouncing back and therefore slightly blinding you. This happened to Lawrence but all that was illuminated from the outside were a pair of eyes looking down towards him and they were very wide apart. “Lion”!  was shouted. I don’t know what made me feel more vulnerable and knew I had Two courses of action. Stat inside a mosquito net and nylon tent the shape and size of a coffin or to stand in the open to face the beast! I chose the open option and so did Lawrence. Armed with my flashlight, Nepalese sheath knife and a pair of boots I stumble / burst out of tent to meet Lawrence in a similar attire but with Daryl’s old .458 rifle in hand. A rustling in the bush indicated where our visitor was and we hurriedly focused the beams of light that way. We saw not lion or leopard but a giant hyena. Bigger than either of us had ever seen before. The noise we had heard moment before had been her emitting a snarling breathing combination of noise that again was totally new to us. But will remain with us forever. It was like she had smoke forty Marlboro’s for just as many years but was also now either very hungry or very upset that we were camping in her path. I say ‘her’ for female hyenas are far larger than the males. I do generally like hyenas and believe they have a terrible and unjust reputation but this particular one lived up to everything and more. We tried repeatedly to chase her off and shone lights clapped hands built the fire up to it max (those three pieces of Mopane saved the day) and shouted to warn her off. Nothing worked she just circled our camp getting closer and closer until we would give her a little mock charge and in return she would also lower her head as if ready to give us a go. She also stunk worse than any other creature I’ve come across, after awhile to conserve battery we would stand by the fire and let our noses guide us to her and when she got to close the lights would go on and we would start the song and dance again. It was still very humid and sweat was pouring off us the fire was burning our backs and it was generally a pretty rotten few hours. Eventually she released that we would get nothing from us, we probably smelt as bad as her and she disappeared into the darkness. I must say nerves were running high and as we crawl back into our tents we told one another we would stay awake for awhile I was still just wearing my boots and I can honestly say we were both asleep within 10 minutes!

Day 12

The hyena hadn’t returned and good nights sleep was had all round. We packed up and got going as soon as possible. Because we had walked 41 kilometers the previous day we only had about 9-10km in a straight line. Our water was running low but not too much of an issue, as we were confident that camp was near. We reach the spot to find nothing but bush. Our water was now empty. We trekked on for another 400m and found camp on a cutline. The bush was now become seriously thick and there were oceans of Terminilia all around. The quad copter was sent up to help us get an idea and it was amazing to see huge dry pans that we had missed and elephant paths by a whisker. Looking southwest with the quad we made out a highway of an elephant path. It wasn’t perfect for our direction but it would help a lot. Anything to free our movement and ease the battle against the bush.


Day 13

Waking at our usual time of 0400hrs we were faced with rain that could not tempt us from the safety of our tents and bedrolls. It was still pitch black outside. Eventually as it became greyer we emerged with our ponchos on and as we left the rain thinned out and stopped as we left. Heading in through the bush we expected to come across the elephant highway but we headed south to soon and missed it. Probably not a bad thing as we were going in more of a direct route and there was a long day ahead of us. The first few kilometers we literally bashed our way through backing into bushes ducking and diving away from whipping branches with some menacing hooks and spines that would tear skin and clothing alike. We found a decent path and followed it. Talk about a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. We came across an oasis. It was a sight for sore eyes and everything else! The area must have been about 5 hectares open and flat apart from the striking white caliche waterholes. Around some of these pans were thick dark acacia bushes that we kept a wary eye on just in case there were any big cats snoozing in the shade!
The waterholes were a quarter full of last night’s precious water. It was crystal clear and the best thing ever. We both had long drinks and set off for a little exploration of the area. There were a number of bull elephants at the far end where we were to exit this little peace of heaven. In fact I marked it down on the GPS as heaven #4 apparently there are 3 others who have heard of it. We crept past the bulls and disappeared into the Mopane scrub that was alive with cicadas and new leaves. The cicadas were screeching in such an ear splitting way that we often stumble into sleeping and browsing elephants only becoming aware of their presence at the last moment. In most cases we would hit the dirt and crawl away using the scrub as cover.
The bush was becoming alarmingly thick and there was no way of keeping a straight line so we were zigzagging through it like crazy. Adrenalin was running high and we were totally focused on our surroundings. The cicadas would come and go as we entered and exited the Mopane areas. By the end of it we had covered close to 30km in the thickest bush yet. Our legs, arms and faces were cut to bits and the dirt that was embedded in our skin would take days to get rid.

Day 14

Packs were loaded for two days out alone.
The beginning of the day we walked down a cutline. The bush was very thick and the previous day had taken its toll physically and mentally. Why fight the bush when you can take an open track for an indeterminate amount of kilometers and then take a straight line. So this is what we did. It was radical how the bush had changed for now we found ourselves in area that would mirror Nxai Pan. Northern black-bellied Korhans surrounded us with their ridiculous cackling calls. A huge cobra crossed the path in front of us and there were a few breeding herds of elephant about. Suddenly the bush felt a little more alive! We reached the area we had planned to camp at but decided to press on as far as possible. In the end another 10km was added to our tally. The last 10km were interesting. It was through a vast sea of Terminilia scrub with fresh lime colored leaves. Just as we thought we were breaking out of it and enter a little open patch our view for as far as we could see was just the heads of more of these lime colored bushes. We ended up camping in almost a perfect little circular clearing within. It was a cheerful camp and we had a fantastic sunset. A big stack of firewood was created but in the end we were both so beat that we crawled into our tents and slept.


Day 15

Another 0400hrs start and I lit the fire. Our cloths were soaked with dew and sweat still from the day before, they steamed off nicely and another superb sunrise started appearing in the east. We were up for more of the same but about 18 kilometers of it. It was a thought that I had to remove from my mind. The first part of the morning was quite literally spent punching through the bush desperately trying to keep as much as a straight line as possible. It was hard and it played on our nerves.  Every elephant path we came across cut across our tracks rather than ran with us.
There was one highlight in this episode and that was coming across a Cape Fox den.  The adults ran off in alarm but returned just as fast they left. They would have never seen humans before. They gave us little warning barks and growls so we reckon they had pups in the den and we gave them the space they wanted. But it really lightened the mood that had been hanging in the air. Shortly after we broke into a valley with huge deep dry waterholes. But there was a lot more game activity. Roan, giraffe, warthog and a small herd of buffalo.  We walked through valley after valley each time seeing more and more with the vegetation changing every minute until we finally reach out camp. It seemed right on the border of Kalahari harsh lands and Okavango Delta marginal woodlands. A superb feeling. We had cracked it. Now we were plain sailing and there would be no more very thick bush, ever! I promised myself that I would never walk so far away from the lush grounds of the Okavango without serious reason! Our camp was visited by a large herd of buffalo that night and there was a rather confused and unhappy Giant Bull Frog in a muddy puddle near by the Land Rover. We had been talking about finding one and trying it on the dinner table but seeing this chap in the wrong place at the wrong time made me feel sorry for him and I knew exactly how he felt!

Day 16

Standard 0400 hour start, we didn’t have a huge distance to go but still wanted to beat the heat. Lawrence joked with Kirk that we would beat him to the next camp. We almost did! After about 2 kilometers we came across the buffalo tracks that had passed through camp the night before. But now they were in very neat lines that had furrowed the soft soil and what a pleasure to walk on. We had no need for a GPS anymore as we new exactly where this herd had come from. The river! Our dream! The day just got better and better and more and more beautiful. Smiles just appeared on our faces and the packs on our backs felt like soft feather pillows. I couldn’t stop using my camera which had been lain against my chest dormant for the last few days. The trees were all just so magical. We could see more than 20 meters. There was sign of game everywhere, fresh dung, fresh tracks the air was just heavy with the sweet scent of antelope. We crossed the main dirt road that leads up to South Gate Moremi and took a few pictures. Just as Lawrence said we should move on before a car comes by a Toyota came steaming into view with the pick up crowded with people. We were like deer in headlights at night. Not to sure what to do! We moved aside, the car stopped greeted us cheerfully and said watch out for the lions and buffalo as they are dangerous and sped off again. We got away from the road on the double and sort the refuge of the interior.
It was a bit mental though, this sudden transition. From the thick bush where you would often loose each other with little game in it (depending) to this open woodland with every tree, bush and ant hill looking like or able to harbor a member of the big five. Our eyes were everywhere at once it was almost too much. It was my turn to carry the rifle that day and I was just getting to distracted with taking photos and this new habitat that I had to consciously make the effort to look out for potentially dangerous animals. We dropped down into a dry riverbed the river that we had been wishing would have had some water in it and turned south. We enjoyed it so much that we just followed the meandering bends instead of taking a direct route. It was totally gorgeous. We found fresh leopard tracks that were moments old and bet that he had watched us go by!
Camp was an amazing location. If the river had had water it would have been even more perfect but we had no complaints. We were under giant Camel Thorns, Leadwood’s and Rain Trees. We were also due our last resupply. This time Colin, Daryl’s brother, and Taryn were coming in. They brought with them all the stuff we’d missed and longed for. Fresh vegetables and fruit as well as a couple of cold beers. The first we’d tasted since the walk began. Needless to say Lawrence and I had were pretty light headed after one and after three had to go to bed!

Day 17

A rest day - hard earned!. A nice slow morning but I still woke at 0400. A great opportunity to work through some of the photos and time-lapses I had made. I think Lawrence and I washed every article of clothing we had brought with us maybe twice before finally hanging them up to dry.  Blisters were dealt with, amazingly we hardly suffered at all! I also treated my feet to a Spa of hot water, salt, savlon, and laundry powder. They sat in it for an hour and loved me dearly for the privilege!  

Day 18

It was sad to leave such a wonderful spot.  We came across the tracks of a large herd of buffalo that had walked in front of the camp the evening before.  After a little way we came across a large herd of giraffe and then a little further a great herd of eland. It was such a privilege to see these gentle, giant antelope trot away from us.  
Game became more and more abundant as we carried on. Herds of zebra stampeded away from us and the odd lone wildebeest charged around aimlessly. We got closer and closer to the vet fence. Finally it was in sight. We walked along until we got to the official gate where we were greeted by a friendly official and we dipped our tired worn boots into the liquid required. And suddenly we were through the gate and on a giant concrete road with huge trucks racing up and down at frightening speed. There were tourists driving themselves in rental 4x4’s and empty game drive vehicles whooshing by. A real shock to the system. We got off the road and into the scrub but by this time our energy levels were dropping and we decided to brave the traffic and chaos of the road rather than fight the last 2.5km of thick bush.
Stuart from Karibu and Colin had come out to see us and deliver some much needed and missed pizza from Sports Bar in Maun. It went down like a home sick mole.


Day 19

A short walk, which we completed by 0915 to the edge of Shorobe village.  We finally found the much wished for river, the top end of the Tamalakane. What a treat to float in the cool water. A couple of friends came up to say hello and pass the afternoon with us, which was great fun!

Day 20

Even though we were now in civilization there was still a lot of elephant activity, actually quite an alarming amount along the river. The trees are taking more of a hammering here than pretty much anywhere else I had witnessed along the whole walk. The temperatures had rocketed again but all was forgotten as Lawrence’s parents Eileen and Jan had come out to meet us armed with Riley’s chicken, Nandos chicken and soft drinks. More heaven! That evening the whole Movember team joined us for a braai and it was wonderful to see Daryl again. He was better but still mending, and due to fly down to South Africa the following day with his brother Colin. Both of whom had been instrumental in the realisation of this dream and incredible adventure.

Day 21

With mixed emotions we set off for our final day. We handrailed the river as much as possible but we increasingly came across a lot of small fields surrounded by aggressive acacia barricades to stop the wildlife and domestic animals alike from eating the precious crops. Suddenly Lawrence’s phone rang and Karen who very kindly made and donated our leather gaiters was wondering where we were and whether we had passed her house. The leather gaiters were quite possibly the best items Lawrence and I had on the walk and I must thank her again, publicly.  So now our numbers were back to three! About 2km from Okavango River Lodge a great crowd of well wishers joined us, ranging in age from four to sixty four. Three generations of Drotsky’s were walking; it really became quite a parade by the time we reach the River Lodge. There was a fantastic crowd there to welcome us home. Finally we had made it. Our first job was to dunk our hands and faces into the river like we had done 21days previously in the Zambezi. It was hard not to just jump in but the camera gear and tracking device would not have appreciated the soaking. A couple of cold beers were thrust into our hands and a long session of hand shaking and hugging went on. It was all a bit overwhelming but we managed to keep our composure. Big beaming smiles were everywhere around us. The total distance was just shy of 390km.

It is chapter in my life that I will remember forever. I was fortunate enough to have shared it with great people and I have a huge amount of respect to them all.

People went well out of their way for us and we thank you all. I hope in time I am able to help you have such a life changing event if your own. Daryl is doing very well and eager for the next adventure, as are we all.